Monday, March 19, 2012

Dark Eldar Process

  • Black primer on the whole model
  • For the base I dry brushed using Codex Grey and then later Fortress Grey over it
  • For the flayed skin I base coated using Scorched Brown and then 2-3 thin coats of bleached bone over it. I used Ogryn Flesh Wash to the skin and lightly went over the edges and raised areas with a  watered down 1:1 Skull White and Bleached Bone mix.
  • For the metallic parts I used a Reaper paint, Shadowed Steel, mixed in 2:1 with Codex Grey. I used Badab Black Wash to the metal areas to darken the metal and later added highlights using 1:1 Shadowed Steel and Codex Grey and edge/tip highlights I used 1:1:1 Shadowed Steel, Codex Grey, Skull White.
  • For the armor I base coated with a 1:1 mix of Liche Purple and Chaos Black. I highlighted around the edges with a watered down thin coat of Liche Purple. I used a thin coat of Choas Black to wash in recesses and cracks. My highlight was then 1:1 Liche Purple and Skull White. The edge/tip highlights were with 2:1 Skull White and Liche Purple. I would finish using a watered down Chaos Black to help blend all the colors together and to correct any highlight line mistakes from before.
  • For the eyes I used Dark Angel Green to fill all the recesses. I used Scorpion Green to paint in the lenses and a watered down Scorpion Green below the lens and onto the helmet areas for a light source 'glow' effect. 
  • For the runes and gemstones I used Regal Black as a base coat and worked my way up to Icy Blue.




Saturday, March 3, 2012

Tyranid Prime finished



Old One Eye finished



I've started a new step in doing bone area/pieces on my Tyranids. The steps are as mentioned before in my earlier posts, but I further use Ogryn Flesh Wash and a watered down Bleached Bone layer over the lighter areas. I finish with a watered down skull white on the very tips/edges of the bone area/pieces.

Check out a redone Swarmlord with this technique.